Description:

Lincoln Mary



Mary Todd Lincoln Period Carte de Visite

 

Period carte de visite depicting Mary Todd Lincoln (1818-1882), circa early 1860s, wearing a floral wreath and 3-pc Tiffany jewelry suite (elements that she also donned for the 1861 inauguration.) The sepia-toned albumen print is mounted on a gilt-trimmed cream stock card. Stamped verso "Mrs Lincoln. / Published by / J. O'Kane, / 126 Nassau Street, / New-York." Expected weathering and two lightly trimmed corners, else near fine. Pencil-inscribed verso. Overall 2.375" x 4".

 

This carte de visite highlights the First Lady's spectacular Tiffany & Co. demi-parure seed pearl jewelry suite, comprised of a choker necklace and pair of matching bracelets. The 3-piece set was gifted to the Library of Congress in 1937.

 

Lincoln had gained a reputation as a fashion trendsetter during her husband's tenure at the White House. The First Lady loved clothes and accessories, high-quality fabrics cut in the latest style and often modeled after French Empress Eugenie. She employed former slave Elizabeth Keckley as a private fashion designer and dressmaker. Lincoln consistently overspent her allowances and concealed the true extent of her expenditure from her husband. Her extravagance was probably motivated in part by mental imbalance, yet it also showed her acute awareness of image and status. Mary Todd Lincoln took seriously her position as First Lady; she believed that her husband's administration was represented as much through her personal dress, or the redecoration of the White House, as it was by his public policies.

 

J. O'Kane advertised his wares in a March 1860 issue of the Working Farmer. He is listed as "J. O'Kane, Photograph Album Manufacturer & Bookseller, 126 Nassau Street, N.Y. Card Photographs of the prominent men of the day, set or by mail, ten for $1.00."

 



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