Description:

Jackie Kennedy's Oleg Cassini Designed Blue Suit, Original Fashion Sketch

An original fashion sketch prepared for First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy (1929-1994) by the design studio of Oleg Cassini, Inc. The hand-drawn sketch in pen, pencil, and blue marker is on off-white sketch paper. The ensemble slated for "Mrs. K." was comprised of a two-piece suit with matching hat, scarf, and gloves. Pencil inscribed with annotations throughout, and signed by Joseph Boccheir, Design Coordinator of Oleg Cassini, Inc., as "Jos" at left. Provenance: From the personal property of the Estate of Oleg Cassini.

Oleg Cassini (1913-2006) had been selected to become First Lady Jackie Kennedy's exclusive fashion designer-- or "Secretary of Style"--because he had a concrete vision of what Jackie's clothing would look like, and more importantly, what it would represent. He designed 300 outfits for Jackie between 1961-1963. Her evening gowns, day wear, suits, coats, hats, and accessories would create a distinctive "Jackie look" that would mark the reign of the new "American Queen."

Cassini noted in "A Thousand Days of Magic: Dressing Jacqueline Kennedy for the White House" (New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1995): "Jackie reminded me of an ancient Egyptian princess--very geometric, even hieroglyphic, with the sphinx-like quality of her eyes, her long neck, slim torso, broad shoulders, narrow hips, and regal carriage…I wanted to dress her cleanly, architecturally, in style. I would use the most sumptuous fabrics in the purest interpretations…I was proposing a new look, a new concept, my interpretation of how Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy should appear in her role as First Lady…[I] told her that she needed a story, a scenario as First Lady. " (p. 15-18)

Cassini's vision of Jackie coincided with her own, and the two successfully collaborated to set major worldwide fashion trends. In Jackie's wardrobe, you could find all the classic elements of 60s mod--A-line dresses in bright colors and bold patterns, strapless gowns with elbow-length gloves, tailored suits, fur-trimmed coats with oversized collars, buttons, and pockets, and of course, pillbox hats. Cassini's sketches--as well as those prepared by members of his design team--show that their designs encompassed entire ensembles, complete with clothing, hat, purse, and accessories.

This item comes with a Certificate from John Reznikoff, a premier authenticator for both major 3rd party authentication services, PSA and JSA (James Spence Authentications), as well as numerous auction houses.

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June 10, 2020 10:30 AM EDT
Wilton, CT, US

University Archives

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