Description:

Fernand Léger Signed Contract for the Fuller Fabrics Modern Masters Series

A 1p typed document in English signed by modern French artist Fernand Léger (1881-1955) as "F leger" near center right. Also dated in Léger's hand as May 10, 1954. N.p. On a single leaf of cream paper. Also countersigned by one Joseph Forster, an agent for New York City clothier D.B. Fuller & Co., aka Fuller Fabrics, and another witness. Expected paper folds and isolated grubbiness, else near fine. 8" x 10." Provenance: Ex-Noel Goldblatt (ca. 1926-2003) of the famous Goldblatt's Department Store, to a prominent Los Angeles, California collector.

This contract between Fernand Léger and Fuller Fabrics outlined the terms as follows, in part: "This will confirm that, in consideration for a payment made to me and for future royalty payments for which I will look to you alone, I grant to you, for a period of one year from the first date of each adaptation (which I understand will not exceed six months from this date) the exclusive right to adapt for textiles and textile products, original designs and/or existing works of art created by me, and to use my name in connection with the sale thereafter…"

In 1953, in response to criticism that there wasn't enough high art in women's fashion, an American clothing executive named Dan Fuller made a sales pitch to five of Europe's most revered modern artists: Fernand Léger, Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Joan Miró, and Raoul Dufy (technically to Dufy's widow, representing the artist's estate.) President of D.B. Fuller & Co., Fuller wanted to incorporate visually appealing motifs from the artists' artwork into inexpensive women's sportswear, so that ladies could consume "fine art by the yard." The artists' designs--such as Léger's "Parade Sauvage" or Picasso's "Fish"--were meticulously roller-printed onto fabrics then styled into women's couture by fashion designers like Claire McCardell. The Fuller Fabrics Modern Masters series launched with a robust publicity campaign which included a museum exhibit, film, and magazine articles, in 1955. It was so successful that Georges Braque and Paul Klee were invited to join in a second round of clothing collaborations.

The attached image shows Léger in his Paris art studio in 1955, roughly two weeks before his death. Standing next to him is Irish fashion model Anne Gunning, wearing one of the Claire McCardell-tailored dresses incorporating Léger's designs made for the Fuller Fabrics Modern Masters series.

This item comes with a Certificate from John Reznikoff, a premier authenticator for both major 3rd party authentication services, PSA and JSA (James Spence Authentications), as well as numerous auction houses.

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September 29, 2021 10:30 AM EDT
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University Archives

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